Southern Road Trip #2 - December 21 - 31, 2018
My laboratory shut down over the Christmas holiday season this year, forcing me to take vacation when I normally wouldn't. This meant I had 11 days off consecutively. While it was over Christmas, and some would say I should have spent it with my family. I couldn't sit around in the cold Rockies winter for 11 days straight. It was as great opportunity for me to take a second southern road trip. On my first I hadn't hiked nearly everything that you could around Las Vegas. I also had missed various other things on the way back up.
My goals were the same as last time. Spend zero dollars on accommodation. This time I succeed, despite temperatures down to -15 degrees Celsius that made me wish I could afford a hotel. Spend little on food. Which I succeed doing, only eating one restaurant meal and a few fast food stops. When the temperature became too cold for the poor, long suffering jet boil to handle. Climb as many peaks as I can, visit as many hot springs as I can find, and visit a new National Park.
I was very successful. Only messing up one day that it rained/snowed in the morning, by doing an easy walk up a hill that can barely be counted as a peak. I did downgrade most of my hikes due to the snow that fell, and a lack of daylight during this time of year. I had more ambitious plans that I set aside. I also ended up going back a day early so as not to spend New Year Eve alone. Despite this I had a great time, and though I would have liked to spend more time in the amazing canyons of Red Rocks, it was otherwise successful.
I had to make some adjustments to my sleep set up this time, in anticipation of the colder temperatures I would experience. I bought a large sheet of 1.5 inch Polyisocyanurate Insulated Sheathing, and cut it to fit my sleeping area. This wasted a lot of the giant sheet, but I kept it in storage for later. I taped up the edges with waterproof duct tape (it was shedding horribly), and that became the platform my sleeping pad rested on. This worked wonderfully. The cold air which circulates under the car and was getting through my sleeping pad last time to attack me, couldn't this time.
I also bought a sleeping bag liner from Sea to Summit (in a local Calgary store). This is supposed to increase warmth by up to 15°C. Using it I could sleep mostly comfortably down to about -10°C when I could only do -4°C before. I also managed to survive a -15°C night. I did have to restart the car half way through my 8 hour sleep, to re-fill it with warm air though. But two 4 hour naps isn't a bad sleep at -15°C in just your unheated SUV.
Lastly I bought an actual front windshield cover for the inside of my car. This way all the windows would be properly covered. I still set up an extra towel across the front seat gap, to blot out the blinking light on my dash board. The actual cover made me feel far more secure in the car though, since there was no possible way to see inside now at all. My fancy covers I made last time (see the end of this post) were still in great shape. I've used them all summer, and am still in love with them.
Day 1 - December 22 (Saturday)
This time I made it to the real Lava Hot Springs (see last trip when I ended up in the hotels hot springs). I was a bit gittery from drinking way too much coffee on the way down, but otherwise enjoyed their various pools of many temperatures. I then drove back down the side road to Hawkins Reservoir and spent a night there. I learned from my last trip, and instead of keeping the towel and bikini in the car with me, I instead had it outside. I rolled down the drivers window, placed the bag outside but the straps of it inside, then rolled the window back up again. This way it wasn't sitting on the ground beside the car or anything, and the bag at least was secured to the car but outside.
Day 2 - December 23 (Sunday)
I had found a lovely natural hot springs just off the I-15 during my research this time. I have no idea how I didn't find this before. Its an absolute gem. Its on private land, but currently the land owner allows access to several pools of hot water. Called Meadow Hot Springs, it is just outside the town of Meadow, and only a ~5 minute drive off the main highway.
I got there decently early at ~10am. There were a few vehicles parked there with people sleeping inside. They sort of got up when I got there, but I still managed to take a few pics before they got into the springs.
This is the hottest pool. Its extremely deep in the center, to the point that some of the people who came in later scuba-dived down into it. Which was neat to see. Apparently this is the pool to be in at night. At times it can be almost completely full. People bring glow sticks, and throw them down to the bottom to light up the pool. Divers like the ones I saw, pick these up when they go down, to help clean up the place and keep it open for future visitors. So a big thanks to those people. Leaving no trace is as important on private land, as it is on public.
I sat in this pool for probably a full two hours. Usually on the edge where you can lean against the it. Sitting on this rope across the deepest section was a bit unnerving. At one point I got out and got my jet boil from the car. I then got back in and cooked up and ate a second breakfast of oatmeal poolside. A luxury not afforded to you in commercial hot springs. I was very careful not to spill any in the pool or along the edge.
I was just about to leave, when I decided to go check out the smaller shallower pool off in the distance. This pool is also much less hot. Almost to the point that you cannot sit in it during these cold winter months. However it was slightly more picturesque.
So I couldn't help taking another photo. Then some more people showed up and I decided it was time to finish my long drive down to Las Vegas. It was getting late after all.
I had vague hopes that it wouldn't be too snowy, and I could hike Bonanza Peak up in the northern high Spring Mountains. I did end up getting all the way up to the the chilly parking lot. Which is above the small town of Cold Creek, and far below that the prisons along the highway below that. The parking lot was an ice sheet, and after cooking up my dinner I'd lost my appetite for the hike. While I was pretty sure I could make it up the peak. I hadn't driven for 19 hours down to the Las Vegas area, to hike up a snow covered trail in my icers. I was here for warmth and dry rock.
So I drove down to a small parking area below Cold Creek (and the snow line), and spent the night in the SUV there.
Day 3 - December 24 (Monday)
I woke up to sunrise poking its light through a small gap in my window covers. I could just somehow tell it wasn't the moonlight anymore. It had a different quality. The moon was full during the first few days of this trip, and extremely bright at night.
I finished my drive back down to the highway and around Las Vegas to Red Rocks Canyon. Seeing some burrios along the way down the road.
The view from my parking area.
The burrio in the morning sunshine.
The gate was open but not manned, since this was during the beginning of the government shut down. It had started the day I left, and I'd had to quickly check some websites in Lethbridge on my way down, to ensure I even could get into this state park and Bryce. If I couldn't the trip would probably have been off. But thankfully both websites reassured me they would stay open (even if not fully).
I drove over to the Turtlehead Peak trail head parking lot, and cooked up some breakfast and coffee. I ate as I packed for this short hike. Soon as I made my way up towards the peak on the official trail temperatures were reaching +15°C. A heat I haven't hiked in since August. It was blissful, but I was sweating like crazy.
The trail was initially easy to follow but started braiding once it got into the shallow gully below Turtlehead Peak.
After a small mistake where I went too high, I found the correct path again and followed it up to the ridge-line. As you can see some parts are marked with painted rocks to help.
On the ridge-line there is a single trail again, until you get around to the backside of the Turtle. Then it braids again, but no way is wrong as you make your way up to the summit.
The views looking over the Calico Basin area (outside of the state park), towards Las Vegas. Below me here in the center is Kraft Peak, a really fun scramble I'd complete on my last day in Las Vegas.
The view south along the peaks and canyons of Red Rocks Canyon is also very nice. Despite some thin cloud on this day. As you can see the highest points behind the Red Rocks peaks already is covered in snow. Just above my head to the left is Bridge Mountain. A long day I'd hoped to complete the next day. The weather had other plans for me though.
On the top I talked briefly with some rock climbers out for a day of cardio. They couldn't understand why I said I was too lazy to learn how to use ropes and start rock climbing, when I was obviously not too lazy to drive all the way from Calgary to Las Vegas. They sort of teased me over it, and it felt just like home (many people tell me I am just too easy to tease).
Back at the trail head, it was still quite early so I decided to do the hike into Icebox Canyon. The road was crazy busy at this time of day, but I somehow managed to get a parking spot at the trail head.
I was so happy about that I started out not properly packing my super small backpack. I had a sweater, water, camera, passport, but had forgotten to take any food. Since this hike was only supposed to take 1-2 hours I figured I'd live.
The official trail ends only a small ways into the canyon. Its hard to tell where, but once you descend down into the wash you know your off the trail. I continued along (as most people do), down the canyon. It was extremely easy, nothing like Pine Creek Canyon. Only two places where you do a little scramble. Then one spot where you must leave the wash, and go up on the side into the shrubbery, to avoid a step.
Along the way I met a girl who had been travelling around for two months in the southwest solo. Who was nice enough to take the above photo of me at the end of the canyon. She continued up the steep rocky slope to the left of the watercourse in this photo, to the pool at the very back of the canyon. And I stupidly followed her.
It was certainly neat being up there, but as I watched her slide back down the slick rock, I suddenly realized it was quite terrifying to get down. The slope we'd climbed up was a bit featureless for a scramble. And tilted ever so slightly toward the water course, and a certain broken leg if you feel down there. I stood at the top for some time contemplating my stupidly. The girl thankfully did not leave me (she was very nice and this was not her fault at all), and tried to convince me it was fine from the bottom.
Soon more people showed up, and one older man climbed a bit of the way up the lower part which was more featured. With him pushing me feet into the small features / smears in the rock, I shakily down climbed the feature facing inwards. Rather than slithering down like the girl had. As several other hikers look on. An ignoble end to my first day in Red Rocks, and probably another reason I backed down on doing longer hikes the next few days (as well as the weather).
After that I drove back out of the park and into Lovell Canyon. I passed my old campsite from the year before, and continued down the road farther. Eventually going up a side road which led to a spot that had amazing views towards Mount Charleston.
The sun was still out and it was actually warm. So I spent some time digging into a smoked salmon, one of my employees had given me for Christmas. It was great. I also had a favorite american beer. A raspberry sour. After I staged this photo, it eventually occurred to me to turn the SUV around, so I could actually see the view from my perch. Soon the temperatures started to drop though, and I crawled into my sleeping bag and continued to watch the view through the open truck until dinner time.
Sitting in the sun was rather rare on this trip. Much more of my time was spent like this, crouched over the jet boil waiting for it to take forever to cook my meals. I ate my lovely (but apparently disgusting sounding) mixture of dehydrated bison stew and kraft dinner.
As I got into the car for the night, I heard a pack of coyotes howling. Impossible to tell how far away they were. I was glad I was getting into my hard sided vehicle for the night, rather than camping in a tent.
Day 3 - December 25 (Tuesday)
I woke up to the sound of rain in the middle of the night. At this point it was just a light drizzle so I didn't worry. It was the desert after all, it would stop right? I woke up later in the early morning to much harder rain. I checked the ground below my SUV and it was getting soaked. Worried about the dirt road I'd driven up turning into mud, I started the car and drove down to the paved part of Lovell Road. I found myself a flat section just off the road, and went back to sleep.
Nothing could be done in such weather. In fact there is a general rule you aren't allowed to rock climb sandstone (the rock of Red Rocks Canyon), for a day or two after a rainstorm. The rock is too porous and becomes brittle after a rainstorm. I wasn't sure if that rule also applied to scrambling, but wasn't going to go do anything difficult just in case.
The rain stopped at some point in mid-morning. At about 11am I finally woke up, much refreshed. I suppose I needed it after the long drive down. More snow had fallen on the tops of the peaks to the east. These are the ones which are behind the peaks and canyons of Red Rocks. This didn't bode well for me ever getting up Bridge Mountain. As you sort of circle around this upper area, and are at that same elevation for most of the scramble. It also didn't look good for another idea of mine.
I drove off pondering which short hike I should do, but the only other one on my list was Kraft, and that was a bit scrambly to be done after a rainfall. While coming back down over the pass towards Las Vegas, I stopped in the Late Night Trail head parking lot. I decided to take a short walk up the hill behind the parking lot. I didn't know if it had a name or not. Once I was home, I found out its called Sunday Hill on Peakery. Sonny Bou has also gone up this hill, and called it Heart Hill. After the rocks laid out in a heart shape on the summit.
The heart and summit views to the west.
Summit views to the north.
A barrel cactus. Which was a very pretty pink.
My goals were the same as last time. Spend zero dollars on accommodation. This time I succeed, despite temperatures down to -15 degrees Celsius that made me wish I could afford a hotel. Spend little on food. Which I succeed doing, only eating one restaurant meal and a few fast food stops. When the temperature became too cold for the poor, long suffering jet boil to handle. Climb as many peaks as I can, visit as many hot springs as I can find, and visit a new National Park.
I was very successful. Only messing up one day that it rained/snowed in the morning, by doing an easy walk up a hill that can barely be counted as a peak. I did downgrade most of my hikes due to the snow that fell, and a lack of daylight during this time of year. I had more ambitious plans that I set aside. I also ended up going back a day early so as not to spend New Year Eve alone. Despite this I had a great time, and though I would have liked to spend more time in the amazing canyons of Red Rocks, it was otherwise successful.
I had to make some adjustments to my sleep set up this time, in anticipation of the colder temperatures I would experience. I bought a large sheet of 1.5 inch Polyisocyanurate Insulated Sheathing, and cut it to fit my sleeping area. This wasted a lot of the giant sheet, but I kept it in storage for later. I taped up the edges with waterproof duct tape (it was shedding horribly), and that became the platform my sleeping pad rested on. This worked wonderfully. The cold air which circulates under the car and was getting through my sleeping pad last time to attack me, couldn't this time.
I also bought a sleeping bag liner from Sea to Summit (in a local Calgary store). This is supposed to increase warmth by up to 15°C. Using it I could sleep mostly comfortably down to about -10°C when I could only do -4°C before. I also managed to survive a -15°C night. I did have to restart the car half way through my 8 hour sleep, to re-fill it with warm air though. But two 4 hour naps isn't a bad sleep at -15°C in just your unheated SUV.
Lastly I bought an actual front windshield cover for the inside of my car. This way all the windows would be properly covered. I still set up an extra towel across the front seat gap, to blot out the blinking light on my dash board. The actual cover made me feel far more secure in the car though, since there was no possible way to see inside now at all. My fancy covers I made last time (see the end of this post) were still in great shape. I've used them all summer, and am still in love with them.
Day 1 - December 22 (Saturday)
This time I made it to the real Lava Hot Springs (see last trip when I ended up in the hotels hot springs). I was a bit gittery from drinking way too much coffee on the way down, but otherwise enjoyed their various pools of many temperatures. I then drove back down the side road to Hawkins Reservoir and spent a night there. I learned from my last trip, and instead of keeping the towel and bikini in the car with me, I instead had it outside. I rolled down the drivers window, placed the bag outside but the straps of it inside, then rolled the window back up again. This way it wasn't sitting on the ground beside the car or anything, and the bag at least was secured to the car but outside.
Day 2 - December 23 (Sunday)
I had found a lovely natural hot springs just off the I-15 during my research this time. I have no idea how I didn't find this before. Its an absolute gem. Its on private land, but currently the land owner allows access to several pools of hot water. Called Meadow Hot Springs, it is just outside the town of Meadow, and only a ~5 minute drive off the main highway.
I got there decently early at ~10am. There were a few vehicles parked there with people sleeping inside. They sort of got up when I got there, but I still managed to take a few pics before they got into the springs.
This is the hottest pool. Its extremely deep in the center, to the point that some of the people who came in later scuba-dived down into it. Which was neat to see. Apparently this is the pool to be in at night. At times it can be almost completely full. People bring glow sticks, and throw them down to the bottom to light up the pool. Divers like the ones I saw, pick these up when they go down, to help clean up the place and keep it open for future visitors. So a big thanks to those people. Leaving no trace is as important on private land, as it is on public.
I sat in this pool for probably a full two hours. Usually on the edge where you can lean against the it. Sitting on this rope across the deepest section was a bit unnerving. At one point I got out and got my jet boil from the car. I then got back in and cooked up and ate a second breakfast of oatmeal poolside. A luxury not afforded to you in commercial hot springs. I was very careful not to spill any in the pool or along the edge.
I was just about to leave, when I decided to go check out the smaller shallower pool off in the distance. This pool is also much less hot. Almost to the point that you cannot sit in it during these cold winter months. However it was slightly more picturesque.
So I couldn't help taking another photo. Then some more people showed up and I decided it was time to finish my long drive down to Las Vegas. It was getting late after all.
I had vague hopes that it wouldn't be too snowy, and I could hike Bonanza Peak up in the northern high Spring Mountains. I did end up getting all the way up to the the chilly parking lot. Which is above the small town of Cold Creek, and far below that the prisons along the highway below that. The parking lot was an ice sheet, and after cooking up my dinner I'd lost my appetite for the hike. While I was pretty sure I could make it up the peak. I hadn't driven for 19 hours down to the Las Vegas area, to hike up a snow covered trail in my icers. I was here for warmth and dry rock.
So I drove down to a small parking area below Cold Creek (and the snow line), and spent the night in the SUV there.
Day 3 - December 24 (Monday)
I woke up to sunrise poking its light through a small gap in my window covers. I could just somehow tell it wasn't the moonlight anymore. It had a different quality. The moon was full during the first few days of this trip, and extremely bright at night.
I finished my drive back down to the highway and around Las Vegas to Red Rocks Canyon. Seeing some burrios along the way down the road.
The view from my parking area.
The burrio in the morning sunshine.
The gate was open but not manned, since this was during the beginning of the government shut down. It had started the day I left, and I'd had to quickly check some websites in Lethbridge on my way down, to ensure I even could get into this state park and Bryce. If I couldn't the trip would probably have been off. But thankfully both websites reassured me they would stay open (even if not fully).
I drove over to the Turtlehead Peak trail head parking lot, and cooked up some breakfast and coffee. I ate as I packed for this short hike. Soon as I made my way up towards the peak on the official trail temperatures were reaching +15°C. A heat I haven't hiked in since August. It was blissful, but I was sweating like crazy.
The trail was initially easy to follow but started braiding once it got into the shallow gully below Turtlehead Peak.
After a small mistake where I went too high, I found the correct path again and followed it up to the ridge-line. As you can see some parts are marked with painted rocks to help.
On the ridge-line there is a single trail again, until you get around to the backside of the Turtle. Then it braids again, but no way is wrong as you make your way up to the summit.
The views looking over the Calico Basin area (outside of the state park), towards Las Vegas. Below me here in the center is Kraft Peak, a really fun scramble I'd complete on my last day in Las Vegas.
The view south along the peaks and canyons of Red Rocks Canyon is also very nice. Despite some thin cloud on this day. As you can see the highest points behind the Red Rocks peaks already is covered in snow. Just above my head to the left is Bridge Mountain. A long day I'd hoped to complete the next day. The weather had other plans for me though.
On the top I talked briefly with some rock climbers out for a day of cardio. They couldn't understand why I said I was too lazy to learn how to use ropes and start rock climbing, when I was obviously not too lazy to drive all the way from Calgary to Las Vegas. They sort of teased me over it, and it felt just like home (many people tell me I am just too easy to tease).
Back at the trail head, it was still quite early so I decided to do the hike into Icebox Canyon. The road was crazy busy at this time of day, but I somehow managed to get a parking spot at the trail head.
I was so happy about that I started out not properly packing my super small backpack. I had a sweater, water, camera, passport, but had forgotten to take any food. Since this hike was only supposed to take 1-2 hours I figured I'd live.
The official trail ends only a small ways into the canyon. Its hard to tell where, but once you descend down into the wash you know your off the trail. I continued along (as most people do), down the canyon. It was extremely easy, nothing like Pine Creek Canyon. Only two places where you do a little scramble. Then one spot where you must leave the wash, and go up on the side into the shrubbery, to avoid a step.
Along the way I met a girl who had been travelling around for two months in the southwest solo. Who was nice enough to take the above photo of me at the end of the canyon. She continued up the steep rocky slope to the left of the watercourse in this photo, to the pool at the very back of the canyon. And I stupidly followed her.
It was certainly neat being up there, but as I watched her slide back down the slick rock, I suddenly realized it was quite terrifying to get down. The slope we'd climbed up was a bit featureless for a scramble. And tilted ever so slightly toward the water course, and a certain broken leg if you feel down there. I stood at the top for some time contemplating my stupidly. The girl thankfully did not leave me (she was very nice and this was not her fault at all), and tried to convince me it was fine from the bottom.
Soon more people showed up, and one older man climbed a bit of the way up the lower part which was more featured. With him pushing me feet into the small features / smears in the rock, I shakily down climbed the feature facing inwards. Rather than slithering down like the girl had. As several other hikers look on. An ignoble end to my first day in Red Rocks, and probably another reason I backed down on doing longer hikes the next few days (as well as the weather).
After that I drove back out of the park and into Lovell Canyon. I passed my old campsite from the year before, and continued down the road farther. Eventually going up a side road which led to a spot that had amazing views towards Mount Charleston.
The sun was still out and it was actually warm. So I spent some time digging into a smoked salmon, one of my employees had given me for Christmas. It was great. I also had a favorite american beer. A raspberry sour. After I staged this photo, it eventually occurred to me to turn the SUV around, so I could actually see the view from my perch. Soon the temperatures started to drop though, and I crawled into my sleeping bag and continued to watch the view through the open truck until dinner time.
Sitting in the sun was rather rare on this trip. Much more of my time was spent like this, crouched over the jet boil waiting for it to take forever to cook my meals. I ate my lovely (but apparently disgusting sounding) mixture of dehydrated bison stew and kraft dinner.
As I got into the car for the night, I heard a pack of coyotes howling. Impossible to tell how far away they were. I was glad I was getting into my hard sided vehicle for the night, rather than camping in a tent.
Day 3 - December 25 (Tuesday)
I woke up to the sound of rain in the middle of the night. At this point it was just a light drizzle so I didn't worry. It was the desert after all, it would stop right? I woke up later in the early morning to much harder rain. I checked the ground below my SUV and it was getting soaked. Worried about the dirt road I'd driven up turning into mud, I started the car and drove down to the paved part of Lovell Road. I found myself a flat section just off the road, and went back to sleep.
Nothing could be done in such weather. In fact there is a general rule you aren't allowed to rock climb sandstone (the rock of Red Rocks Canyon), for a day or two after a rainstorm. The rock is too porous and becomes brittle after a rainstorm. I wasn't sure if that rule also applied to scrambling, but wasn't going to go do anything difficult just in case.
The rain stopped at some point in mid-morning. At about 11am I finally woke up, much refreshed. I suppose I needed it after the long drive down. More snow had fallen on the tops of the peaks to the east. These are the ones which are behind the peaks and canyons of Red Rocks. This didn't bode well for me ever getting up Bridge Mountain. As you sort of circle around this upper area, and are at that same elevation for most of the scramble. It also didn't look good for another idea of mine.
I drove off pondering which short hike I should do, but the only other one on my list was Kraft, and that was a bit scrambly to be done after a rainfall. While coming back down over the pass towards Las Vegas, I stopped in the Late Night Trail head parking lot. I decided to take a short walk up the hill behind the parking lot. I didn't know if it had a name or not. Once I was home, I found out its called Sunday Hill on Peakery. Sonny Bou has also gone up this hill, and called it Heart Hill. After the rocks laid out in a heart shape on the summit.
The heart and summit views to the west.
Summit views to the north.
A barrel cactus. Which was a very pretty pink.
Views to the east towards Las Vegas as I start down. This was a very short hike, only taking me one hour. Including the summit stay, and all the cactus dodging.
I drove into Las Vegas, passing the rest of Red Rocks Canyon and seeing the snow up top. This confirmed that I should not do one of the super long ascents there. I went into the Red Rocks Casino to have my only restaurant dinner of the road trip. Getting online on the wifi, and checking out the weather and my alternative ascents. I decided to do the extra hour of driving down south to do Spirit Mountain the next day. So after my dinner I started out towards the aptly named Christmas Tree Pass.
The view of Spirit Mountain from the start of the road up to Christmas Tree Pass. At this point I'd been listening to Mythos as read by Stephen Fry while driving for some time, and had gotten to the part where the Greek Gods make man.
The sun was setting as I got near the pass. Around the pass there were several trees and shrubs decorated with Christmas Tree decorations. This something I did not plan, but was a bit hilarious. I had run away from Christmas because I don't enjoy it, and yet here I was surrounded by decorations on the very day of Christmas. I sat on the hood of my SUV and watched the sun set pondering life. Then went into the SUV, to finish off another beer and read a good book, this one a paper copy of course.
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